Sun Set

Edinburgh Old Town City Center

As the sun sets on this third trip to Edinburgh, we are leaving a place that has become like a second home. So much of what we experienced here quite suited us. The genuine warmth of the people (several of whom we have befriended). The active hill walking lifestyle (hikers' paradise). The extensive public bus and train system (life without a car). The stunningly beautiful and diverse scenery (historic architecture, beaches, mountains, bogs, heather, landscapes, vistas). The convenience (most everything nearby our neighborhood). The history (and architecture, art, music, culture). The convenience (of city living with everything nearby).

We look forward to our next sunrise in Edinburgh.

Perfect Finale

Chartered Bus

What a perfect finale to our three-month stay. We spent our final day in Scotland on a hill walk with the All Year Ramblers club. On occasion, the Club will forego public bus and train travel in favor of a chartered bus (see photo). This allows for a much larger group (we had 37), and it allows for a more remote destination. Lucky for us that this hill walk coincided with the conclusion of our trip here. Lucky, because after the day was spent hill walking, all gathered prior to re-boarding the bus for the return trip. We gathered in a UNESCO World Heritage site with a pub where, as the group was gathered, we toasted our friendship.

The best of friends meet but to part

And go upon their way

Yet only part to meet again

Upon another day

No Bugs

No Screens

We have noticed the same thing here in Scotland that we have noticed on our other travels throughout Europe:  no bugs. And by bugs, we are not referring to the kind Mike engineered for the CIA. We definitely hope there are lots of those being put to good use; doubt there will be a blog post about that (feel free to visit the spy Museum in Washington DC to see some of Mike’s work). We are talking about insects. Our accommodations in Edinburgh, in Inverness, in Fort William, and on the Isle of Lewis and Harris, have come without screens. No need. There are no bugs to speak of. No swatting, no bites, no stinging, no insect repellent. How nice. Another benefit of vacation travel. 

No Left Or Right

Lawnmarket

In Edinburgh, we can find little evidence of left or right. No, we’re not talking about the political kind. We are talking about the kind of left and right that we run into, most literally, on a daily basis. Unlike in the US where pedestrians are largely rule abiding, walking on the right of the sidewalk just as cars drive on the right side of the road.

Here, it is crazy random; anything goes. Be it a busy sidewalk in the city, a paved pathway, or a trail in the hills, it is the same. No one keeps to the left side or the right side. People on foot coming at you from from all sides and directions. People in front of you scattered randomly across the entire width of the pavement blocking your progress. Oh, the lawless tyranny of it all. Buck up, it is their country, customs, and habits. Have been learning to cope and adapt. Another benefit of vacation travel. 

Ignorance

Graffiti On Water Of Leith Path

Make no mistake, we are looking forward to returning to Roanoke. We miss things there. It is our home. Being close to family and friends is important to us. Actively engaging in our volunteer jobs is important to us. However, there are things we did not miss.

We did not miss being constantly reminded of the powerful forces in the United States that continue to be successful at dividing us. We did not miss being surrounded by information that is so skewed as to not be credible. We did not miss identity politics where the absence of ideas and initiative has been replaced by allegiance to an individual or political party. We did not miss the absence of rigor on the part of so many people when considering information without considering the bias of the source.

In our case, here in Scotland, even if similar is occurring, we have been largely ignorant. Our faithful efforts to educate ourselves here in Scotland have been embryonic. Sometimes, these efforts here feel much like we are looking at indecipherable gibberish on a wall of graffiti (see photo). With our ignorance has come some bliss. After all, “getting away from it all” is one of the benefits of traveling on vacation. Enjoy your travels. 

Bin Strike

Rubbish

"Edinburgh bin strike: rubbish mounts, bins overflowing and streets strewn with litter." That is the headline in the Edinburg Evening News newspaper. It is not a pretty sight. Bins refer to the large trash containers that residents and businesses use on a daily basis to get rid of trash and recyclables. A bin or two can be found on most every street; individual trash cans are not used. The strike is over wages.

The newspaper goes on to say, "Streets are strewn with litter, mounds of refuse have built up next to giant bins and burst bin bags are adding to the problem. The stoppage comes at one of the city’s busiest times of the year, as its population swells with visitors for the Festival, and there are concerns about how the unsightly mess could affect Edinburgh’s image." Sad to see such a mess, especially with all of the visitors.

Helpfully, the letting agent for our flat texted to say that she would be happy to swing by and collect our rubbish and take it out of the city to deposit where there is no strike. How nice.

The Hat

Harris Tweed

We have learned through a bit of recent experience about retail here in Scotland. Call it a supply chain issue, or supply and demand, or old traditions meet the new economy, or covid crazy, or whatever. Here we are with only a week left in our three-month stay in Scotland, and Mike decides he wants to buy something for himself. Mind you, beyond food, transportation, and entertainment, he has not bought a single thing. No books, no souvenirs, no clothes. Nothing for himself. He is not into retail therapy.

We both were highly impressed by our week-long visit to the Isle of Lewis and Harris. He reached the point of wanting to buy something from there, a hat. Mike is into hats; what better than a genuine Harris Tweed hat. By definition, the only place a Harris Tweed item can be manufactured is on the Isle of Lewis and Harris. Similar to champagne and France, or Vidalia onions and Georgia, a toponym. Strangely, although the manufacture of Harris Tweed is a sizable cottage industry on that island, in all of the driving around we did from one end of that place to the other, we could only find a couple of shops selling the stuff. And, they had very little to sell. No hat selection. So, on to plan B. Shop for a hat once back in Edinburgh. Maybe not enough people visit Lewis and Harris to make retail a thing.

Off Mike went. On our first day back in Edinburgh, he heads to the three finest clothing shops in the city; they specialize in genuine cashmere, Scottish wool, and Harris Tweed. No luck with the tweed; shelves are practically bare. Off to make the rounds of standard clothing shops. Same story. Off to visit tourist shops. Plenty of kitche, nary a genuine Harris Tweed hat to be found. How can this be, he asks at every shop; we don't understand it either, they reply. Finally, at the largest and most conspicuous tourist shop, which is located immediately outside the gates of the historic Edinburgh Castle, on one of the five floors of tourist stuff, in a corner mixed in with the mass-produced hats from China, are a couple of authentic Harris Tweed hats (by law they have a label of authenticity). Success, a Harris Tweed Baker Boy cap. Mike is such a shopper.

Books

Largest Book Festival

Edinburgh is home to the largest public celebration of the written word in the world. Every August, over 700 writers from across the planet gather together to rub shoulders with international audiences. Lucky Beth, she has been able to book tickets to listen to several authors. As someone who spent her career teaching English by having high school students rely to a great extent on the benefits of reading (very effective), as some who reads countless books a month (historical fiction is her favorite), as someone who has filled/overfilled all bookshelves in our house (most shelves have double rows), and as someone who needs an extra suitcase for the trip home because of all of the recently purchased books (not traveling light), she is having a wonderful time.

No surprise that Edinburgh hosts this book festival, the city was named as a UNESCO City of Literature two decades ago. She recently saw author Anthony Horowitz talk about his third James Bond thriller, With a Mind to Kill. It is a high-octane tale where 007 is accused of M’s murder (original James Bond author Ian Fleming chose Horowitz to write more James Bond books). Beth said he was the most well-spoken author she has had the pleasure of listening to.

Good Idea?

Peat

This is one of those "seemed like a good idea at the time" episodes. As we were driving along a wild and remote stretch of narrow road on the Isle of Lewis and Harris, as we were marveling at the relatively flat treeless heather-covered bogs, as Mike was pretending he had become proficient at driving on the wrong side of the road shifting a manual transmission with the wrong hand, our extra small sub compact car suddenly screeched to a halt.

Mike immediately jumps out of the vehicle, hops over a locked gate into a fenced field, and strikes out across a peat bog bound for a couple of fresh piles of hand cut peat blocks. Peat is created largely from sphagnum moss and when the plant dies its remains do not fully decompose in the bog’s acid waters, and so the dead moss becomes buried and turns into peat. It has been used for centuries to warm homes and fire whiskey distilleries. Peat covers 20% of the land in Scotland, a much higher percentage on this isle. His phone in hand, taking video along the way, Mike neglects to watch his step. Let's just say he is lucky he did not become another bog body (human cadaver that has been naturally mummified in a peat bog). Hate when that happens.

Two Blacks

Blackhouse Arnol

As a counterpoint to the blog post about two whites, this one is about two blacks. We were out for the day in yet another remote area on the Isle of Lewis and Harris in the Outer Hebrides. To be fair, beyond the town of Stornoway where we are staying in an Airbnb flat, everything is a remote area. Absolutely everything. The entire island only has 20,000 people spread over almost 1,000 square miles. That works out to be an extremely low population density of one-tenth that of Virginia. While driving, we became rather concerned about the rapidly advancing weather front that overtook us. Heavy rain and dark clouds. Dropping temperatures. Little to no visibility. Strong wind blowing the rain across the road. And black as if the sun had been switched off. Black number one.

Black number two included none of that. Our driving destination was a site managed by the Historic Environment Scotland (we are members). They do work not unlike the National Park Service in the US. This site had a historic building that we wanted to tour (inside, out of the rain). The building is a rebuilt and furnished example of a rather common farmer's home 150 years ago. The building's floor was flagstones and packed earth, the walls were stacked stone, and there was a central hearth for the peat fire. There was no chimney for the smoke to escape through. Instead the smoke made its way through the thatched roof. Awfully pungent smell. This led to the soot blackening of the interior which may also have contributed to the adoption of the name blackhouse. Black number two.

Two Whites

Luskentyre Beach

Many things can be colored white. Take for example, our outing in the rental car across vast stretches of lunar-like terrain. We drove from the northern end of the island of Lewis to the southern end of Harris. Yes, that Harris, where they make Harris Tweed. The topography was unlike any we have encountered elsewhere. Barren. Dramatic. Rocky to an extreme with vast swatches of low lying heather. Lakes punctuated the landscape, as did occasional houses.

The only road was as narrow as can be; much of it was one lane each direction with oncoming vehicles mere inches away. However, much of it was single track. That's right, one lane for vehicles going both ways. An oncoming vehicle, if it saw us, would inch off the side of the road at a "passing spot;" nothing more than a slight widening. We tried to do the same. Since it was raining, and since the winding hilly road had constant blind turns, visibility was compromised. The white in this case refers to Mike's knuckles. He was white knuckled (gripping the steering so hard that the blood left his hands and his knuckles turned white). Maybe, as a passenger, Beth's knuckles were also white.

Thankfully, the second white occurred at the end of the road at Luskentyre Beach. It is a stunningly beautiful beach set against a dramatic backdrop of rocks and mountains. Impressively, it has been rated one of the top 25 beaches in the world; it came out ahead of the Virgin Islands and some of the most photographed beaches in Spain and Italy. The sand, for miles, is a white as can be (see photo).

Standing Stones

Callanish Standing Stones

Those who have tuned in to the ever popular Outlander television series have seen standing stones. In the show, they have magical properties. The stones in the show and in real life here in Scotland and elsewhere are almost always are erected in a prominent location in a circular and/or cross shaped pattern. Think of Stonehenge in England. Theories abound regarding the origin and purpose; often mentioned are rituals and  celestial portents.

While visiting the Callanish Standing Stones, on the Isle of Lewis and Harris, there was a bit of magic as we walked through them, a calm connection with something larger than ourselves. We also felt disposed toward the theory that says these stones were petrified giants who would not convert to Christianity. By the way, we have not met a single Scotsman who would admit to watching the Outlander show. Go figure.

Butt of Lewis

Windiest Place In UK

Hard to resist titling a blog, "Butt of Lewis." Well, it just so happens that is a real place, and we did visit. It is one of the more popular sights on the Isle of Lewis and Harris. It is the northernmost point of the island and of the Outer Hebrides. In one direction, it is a straight run to the Arctic and in another, nothing stands between the butt and the coast of Northern Canada. It is in the Guinness Book of Records for being the windiest place in the UK.

And, it is ruggedly scenic as can be (see photo). The Butt of Lewis is a collection of rocks and sea stacks with cliffs that rise almost 100 feet above the boiling sea below. The water smashes into the rocks and the wind howls across the cliff tops. The cliffs themselves have amazing folded structures and are covered in nesting sea birds, soaring high into the sky on the thermocline. A lighthouse marks the spot. Wild.

World Record

Loganair

We continue to enjoy getting to know Scotland; trips around the country have been an important part of that. Now, keep in mind that Scotland has fewer people and a smaller land mass than Virginia. With that having been said, it has its own airline. Loganair has about 50 aircraft serving about the same number of destinations. Remarkably, one of its destinations is on the island of Barra where scheduled flights use a tidal beach as the runway; the only official tidal beach runway in the world.

Loganair also holds the world record for the shortest scheduled passenger flight; Westray to Papa Westray. Flights on this route are scheduled for one and a half minutes, and actual flying time is closer to one minute. The record for the fastest flight is 53 seconds. Total distance traveled, 1.7 miles. This record-breaking journey is shorter than the length of the runway at most major airports. One pilot has completed this flight over 12,000 times; another world record.

Now we will get to know something about another area of Scotland. We just flew Loganair to the Outer Hebrides where we are spending some time on the isle of Lewis and Harris.

Coastline

Granton Beach

Let's keep in mind that Scotland has fewer people and a smaller land mass than Virginia. Keep in mind that Scotland is half of an island (the other half is England and Wales), and Scotland includes over 900 islands. Consequently, Scotland has a lot of coastline. Over 12,000 miles of coastline. That is double the coastal length of the lower 48 states in the US. 

No surprise that Edinburgh is on the coast. And no surprise that a couple of our routine exercise walking routes take us along the coast (see photo). We pass rocky/craggy beaches, harbors, upscale apartment buildings, an ocean liner port, and large marine industrial areas. We also pass the Her Majesty's Yacht Britannia, the former royal yacht of the British monarch, Queen Elizabeth II. Britannia was the only vessel in the Royal Navy to have her own 24-hour laundry; up to 600 shirts could pass through the washers and dryers in one day. It continues to be voted Scotland's best visitor attraction (we have not gone).

Skylights

Bright As Can Be

The 200-year-old flat we are in is bright as can be (we moved from our earlier flat). Since it is on the top floor of a four story building (open sight lines), since it is a corner unit (windows on two sides), and since it has skylights (four of them), and since we are so far north (sun rises early and sets late), light pours in. The foyer skylight (see photo) is dome shaped, from years ago. How nice that is.

The flat is 1,000 square feet; pretty good size for two people. Imagine how spacious it was back in the day before they divided the original flat into two separate units. It has elements of grandeur from a bygone era, somewhat faded and worn, with multiple coats of paint, and with furnishings to match (shabby chic). The main bedroom has a big window seat, fireplace, and a large armoire (no closets back then). The second bedroom is properly referred to as a "box" room:  small enough to be used for storage or a small room to sleep in. The main bath has a cast iron claw foot tub (drains poorly), and a half bath is off the kitchen. Speaking of the kitchen, it is definitely European. Small under-counter refrigerator, under-counter freezer, under-counter washer, a clothes drying rack is on a pulley suspended from the ceiling; very functional. So much charm. We really like the place.

Opera

Maria Stuarda

Beth enjoyed another show at the Fringe Festival; a production of Maria Stuarda. Most appropriate to be watching that show here in Scotland since it is loosely based on the lives of Mary, Queen of Scots (Mary Stuart) and her cousin Queen Elizabeth I. Although they never met in real live, they sure do in this 1835 production; the two famous queens are locked in dangerous power play.

Maria, the White Queen, turns the heads of Leicester and Talbot, two of Elizabeth’s most trusted courtiers. Elizabeth, the Red Queen, blinded by jealousy and suspicious of the White Queen’s motives, is enticed by her henchman, Lord Cecil, to condemn her cousin, a reigning monarch, to death.

Great story. Love, hate, deceit, betrayal, scandal, complicity, and death. Pretty good show, not the Met (as pictured); more like community theater. Mike stayed at the flat to work on Kiwanis business.

Superlatives

Tattoo

We need a list of superlatives to properly address the situation. Best. Biggest. Loudest. Largest. Most impressive/enjoyable/unusual. These terms all apply to our reaction to the Royal Military Tattoo show performed on the esplanade of Edinburgh Castle. Well, add one more term, unbelievable.

We stamped and cheered to the sounds of innumerable military bagpipes and drums, clapped to the Highland Dancers, marveled at the over-the-top lighting of the performers and the castle facade itself, watched in awe at intricate marching formations, and oohed at the closing fireworks. We are talking about 1,000 performers in a high-end professionally produced event (see photo).

This is a hugely popular event; we booked many months in advance. Also expensive; worth every penny. 200,000 attend during the month of shows, with another 100 million watching on TV.  It is the number one show in Edinburgh; has been for many years. Hope you can tell, we thought it was fantastic.

Restaurants

Salmon

According to Scottish tourism officials, Edinburgh has more restaurants per person than any other city in the UK. We are talking about 5,000 restaurants. And that doesn't count another 500 pubs. Since it is such an international city, pretty much every type of food can be found here. Naturally, British restaurants dominate. Indian, Thai, and Asian restaurants are everywhere. We have even seen Himalayan restaurants. Don't forget the fish and chips (french fries). Our dinners out, which have been about once a week, have all been very good.

The seafood is first class. After all, Edinburg is on the coast. Our Stockbridge neighborhood has a fish monger. Even the supermarkets have an abundance of fresh seafood. No surprise, salmon tops the list of delicious seafood; it is the UK's number one food export. On that note, we have read about the concerns regarding salmon farms; apparently not all are responsibly growing salmon. And, the wild caught salmon is being depleted. These reports remind us of the Alaska and Chili salmon situations. Good eats.

B = A+

Wind Farm

Our hill walking club has been at it for 100+ years; they know what they are doing. As an aid, they rate each of the walks on a scale of difficulty. The scale is somewhat subjective, but it helps. Difficulty is generally assessed as a function of miles, elevation gain, and trail conditions. D walks are usually 6 or so miles with little elevation gain over well-established pathways. C walks are longer, with elevation gain, with some challenging footing. And so forth.

Well, this latest walk bent or broke the rules. What was listed as a B walk of 12 miles ended up being much more. And, there was much grumbling. Actually, there was a bit of a mutiny as well. At one point the leader announced we would be walking across an open field with cows and a bull. This is not uncommon; after all, the Scottish National Right To Roam law means that we can walk most everywhere, public land and private land included. And, the leader had recently been here on a recce in preparation. Some walkers were having none of that. They spontaneously separated from the group and walked in a completely different direction; no cows and bull for them. It was a wonder to watch the leader's reaction to the insurrection.

Turns out, we walked by the first and largest wind farm in all of Scotland, over one hundred turbines (see photo). In just 20 years or so, the country has gone from little to no wind energy to now having virtually 100% wind energy. Impressive. Oh, the B = A+ blog title reverts to the fact that our 12 mile walk ended up being 20 miles with 2,000 feet of elevation gain. Definitely not a B rated walk; more like A+. Long day. Phew.